Big wave surfing is one of the most dangerous extreme sports. Professionals are paid to travel around the world attempting daring feats, which often result in them being battered by waves that would be considered unsurfable by less experienced surfers.

The ability to “read” water and predict a big wave swell has long been fundamental to surfing and takes years of practice.

In big wave surfing, however, the waves are so colossal that only a few expert surfers have been brave enough to even attempt them. Many risk their lives in the process.

Two American surfers – Garrett McNamara and Kealii Mamala – were recently filmed by British cinematographer Matt Pycroft attempting one of these extreme surfing missions.

Pycroft, 34, caught the action as they took on a monster wave in Nazare, Portugal earlier this year. He explained: “Just days before Garrett broke his own world record for biggest wave ever surfed there had been a big set that missed everyone out.

“The next day I looked at the forecast and saw another big set coming. It was about eight o’clock in the morning when they got out there, it was pretty dark and cold. They paddled for two hours before they found one that was rideable.”

“There were a lot of waves that day but the one Garrett went on is what people are calling ‘the biggest wave ever ridden’ – I think it was around 90ft.

“I’ve been following Garrett for the last seven years so I know what he’s capable of but even with that knowledge you just can’t believe your eyes sometimes.”    

Elite big wave surfer McNamara, 45, has broken his own previous world record by riding a colossal 100ft (30.5m) wave at the annual Big Wave Awards in California last month (Feb14).

The daredevil beat his own previous record of riding a 76ft (23m) wave at Praia de Norte beach in Nazaré, Portugal back in 2011 by surfing an astonishing extra 24ft (7.3m).

Hercules

Winter storm Hercules has delivered a particularly powerful batch of storms to Europe over the past fortnight (begs05Feb14), with high winds and intense showers battering Britain, France, Portugal, Spain and Italy.    

The perilous conditions have created perfect surfing conditions along the western coasts of Portugal and Spain, sparking a big wave surfing gold rush.

Professional surfers from across the world have travelled to storm-battered Portugal, which is home to some of the biggest and most dangerous waves in Europe.

Portuguese surfer Hugo Vau was one of those riders who took on a 100ft wave earlier this week. He said: “The sea conditions have been really rough recently, really bigger than normal.”

Surfers have flocked there from across the world to take on the perilous ride, which was filmed by Matt Pycroft, who said: “There were a lot of waves that day but the one Garrett went on is what people are calling ‘the biggest wave ever ridden’. I’ve been following Garrett for the last seven years so I know what he’s capable of but even with that knowledge you just can’t believe your eyes sometimes.”

Tips to surfing bigger waves

If you want to get involved in big wave surfing, there are a few things you should know.

1. Choose the right location for beginners

Giant waves only break in specific places known as ‘wave breaks’. These are spots where long, deep ocean swells hit a short, steep seabed bank and topple over to create a powerful wave. This happens because the gradient of the seabed changes abruptly at the wave break – it goes from deep to shallow in a very short distance.

2. Prepare for the unexpected

Big waves can change dramatically while you’re surfing them because they often contain different sections, called ‘faces’. When the front of the face is steeper than the middle or rear, this is called a ‘shoulder’. If the entire face is steeper than the front, it’s a ‘closeout’, and this will flush you down the line.

3. Pick your equipment carefully

Waves in big wave spots are often big enough to break boards, so you need a powerful board with foam on its tail for buoyancy. Also, because of the force and speed you use to take off on a wave, your leash cord could snap or get caught on your back foot. So it’s advisable to have two leashes attached to the board.

4. You don’t need go pro straight away

Just because you think you want to be a big wave surfer doesn’t mean you need to go pro straight away. If you can’t ride a wave for more than 10 seconds, don’t surf the biggest waves – no matter how good it looks on video.

5. Prepare mentally and physically

Of all surfing skills, big wave surfing is probably the ones that requires most mental strength and preparation. It also takes great physical fitness, as you’ll have to paddle into waves that may be more than twice your height.

How to successfully ride a big wave?

1. Position yourself in the line-up

This is always a good tip for beginners: choose a spot where there’s less chance of being hit by another surfer or slammed against rocks. Look for waves that are not breaking on sharp reefs and make sure you’re positioned away from rocks and crowds, and you should be fine!

2. Wait for the right wave

Once again, this is a tip that beginners should know by heart: never go after every wave you see. If you’re still learning how to catch and ride the wave, wait for one that looks like it will be easy to manage – flat-faced and smallish. Once you’ve got down pat how to catch a gentle wave, go for the more challenging ones!

3. Paddle for it!

Once you’ve spotted a rideable wave, paddle your heart out towards it and be careful not to let it pass by – this is where a lot of first-timers fail. Once you turn around and face the shoreline, make sure your board is directed towards the wave, so you can catch it at the best spot. To reduce drag, position yourself near your board’s center line.

4. Pull up to your feet

Catching a big wave means balancing on a very narrow platform – your surfboard! Once you’ve successfully paddled out, take a deep breath, and pull up to your feet. The wave will start to lift you and push you forward, and that’s when you should crouch down and let yourself be carried by the wave!

5. Ride it out!

Look for an open face of a wave with no obstacles (like rocks), and angle your board against the shoreline so it doesn’t face the wrong way, so you won’t fall off. Keep your balance and let the wave take its course until it breaks. At this point, all you have to do is stand up and ride it out – don’t panic!

What is a big wave called in surfing?

A big wave is called a “bomb” in surfing and the reason is because it can be very destructive and dangerous to surfers. Big waves are notoriously difficult to ride and few people have the ability or courage to attempt them.

A big wave is also called a “jumbo” in surfing because of its large size, which is also due to its immense power and energy that can cause damage on everything that is near it.

Also, in surfing a big wave is called a “green room”, because of its color that it gets when it becomes darker due to the depth of the water. Another name for big waves is the “greyhound bus” which is associated with its power and chaos when crashing into shore or on rocks.

A final term used in surfing for a big wave is called “bombora”, which is used to describe waves that break as they reach the shallow water of the shore.

A big wave, also referred to as a “blue whale” in surfing because it’s larger than any other animal and can be very dangerous if you don’t know how to handle it.

What does it take to become a big wave surfer?

It takes great skill and bravery to become a big wave surfer mainly because of its difficulty in riding them. It takes courage and strength to be able to maneuver the board in the right direction that it needs when faced with fast-moving waves.

It also requires a great deal of experience to avoid injuries when surfing these types of waves, because the conditions are very hard to predict. Although many surfers will claim that big  these types of waves are unsafe to surf, there are a few surfers who feel comfortable trying them out.

To become a big wave surfer it takes skill, courage and strength because of the difficulties in riding them. It also needs great experience to avoid injuries that may occur when surfing such conditions that are difficult to predict. Although many surfers will claim big wave surfing is unsafe, there are a few who feel comfortable in trying them out.

Where do you find the biggest waves in the world?

The biggest waves in the world are found near Nazare, Portugal. The reason for this lies in an underwater canyon that has a large amount of water flow, which makes it possible for the waves to grow very large.

Another place you can find the biggest waves in the world is near Alaskan coast, where waves can grow up to thirty-eight feet high. Another spot with big waves is Tasmania where surfers claim that they ride some of the biggest waves that have been recorded in history.

Where is the best place to catch a big wave?

The best spot to catch a big wave is near an island, as it breaks as it reaches shallow water and makes its way towards rocks forming a white wash over them. It can also be found near Alaska where massive waves form due to the underwater canyon that is located there.

Another great place to find big waves is in Nazare, Portugal where they reach up to 100 feet high because of an underwater canyon that has a large amount of water flow. Another place with big waves is Tasmania which also claims some of the biggest waves in history.

What are positive effects of surfing a big wave?

Some of the positive effects of surfing a big wave are that it can be very exhilarating and exciting. There’s also an adrenaline rush from being able to successfully ride a big wave as well as the satisfaction from conquering it.

There’s also good physical benefits from surfing such as, core strength, balance and coordination between movement of the arms and legs. You can also benefit by getting a good cardio workout while surfing because it gets the heart pumping harder than normal.

Surfing has many positive effects such as being exhilarating, having an adrenaline rush and the satisfaction of conquering big waves. Surfing also has good physical benefits with stronger core strength, balance and coordination between the movement and heart benefits with a good cardio workout.

What are the most dangerous parts of surfing a big wave?

The most dangerous part about surfing is getting hit by one or swept by the current, which can lead to drowning. The other danger is trying to make your way back out through whitewater (the foam created by waves) which is difficult to determine where they are headed.

Another danger is being thrown off balance because of the force of the wave crashing on you, which can lead to getting pulled by rip currents. Another problem is getting stuck under a wave and not being able to resurface causing death.

The most dangerous parts of surfing big waves are drowning from getting hit by one or swept by the current and trying to make your way back out through whitewater (the foam created from waves) and getting thrown off balance which can lead to getting pulled in rip currents. Getting stuck under a wave and not resurfacing can cause death, too.

What are negative effects of surfing a big wave?

Some of the negative effects of surfing a big wave are the possibility of drowning because it can be very dangerous. It is also not good for beginners or those that are not confident in their abilities to surf because they will most likely struggle throughout the whole session which puts them at risk.

Another negative effect is you have to spend money on gear, transportation and accommodation before your session. You might also spend a lot of time traveling to the big waves which can be very tiring.

The other negative effect is you might spend money on gear, transportation and accommodations before your session, as well as spending time travelling to the big wave. All this takes away valuable time that could be spent elsewhere.

Some dangers of surfing big waves are the possibility of drowning, struggling to surf making it a dangerous place for beginners and spending time travelling to big waves which can be tiring.

What is the largest surfing wave?

The largest surfing wave ever ridden is 100ft (30.5m) it was measured at the Cortes Bank, off California in 2001 by Mike Parsons.

Another record was set in 2008 when Garrett McNamara surfed a wave that was measured at 78ft (23.77m) at Praia do Norte located in Nazare, Portugal.

How do surfers survive big waves?

Surfers survive big waves by staying in position until they feel the wave beneath them. They also keep their cool and trust in their ability to stay balanced while the wave crashes around them. Most importantly, they follow the “line” (of whitewater) towards where the current is taking them and try and make it out to sea through this channel.

Why are Nazare waves so big?

Nazare waves are so big because of the underwater canyon that is located near the coast. This is the biggest underwater canyon in Europe and where the waves are captured which gradually increase their size.

How long can a big wave hold you under?

A big wave can hold a person under for several seconds, but this depends on how deep the water is and if they have their wetsuit on. If a person was to hold their breath, they can last for several minutes.

What to do if a huge wave is coming?

If a huge wave is coming, go with the flow of the wave. You can also use your arms to help you balance yourself. It is important to not panic, fight against it and swim sideways until the wave has passed by you then, get out of the way quickly because another wave might be on its way.

When was big wave surfing first documented?

Big wave surfing was first documented in 1885. It was documented when surfing got its roots in Hawaii. That’s when it started to become popular in Hawaii.   

Has anyone tried to surf a tsunami?

No one has ever tried to surf a tsunami. That because it is rare for a tsunami to come towards the shore. A tsunami only comes towards the shore if there’s an earthquake under water or near the coastlines. Then, it will head straight towards land and destroy all in its path.

What’s the difference between big wave surfing and regular surfing?

The main difference between big wave surfing and regular surfing is that in big wave surfing you will always get your board under your feet but in regular surfing it depends. Also, big waves are much more intimidating than regular ones.

How big of a wave is called a “bomb”?

A big wave is called a “bomb” when it reaches about 30 feet.  It was originally named a bomb because the wave was so big you would not believe it, and it would hit you like a bomb.  

What are some examples of big waves?

100ft Nazare waves, 80ft Hawaii waves, 50ft California waves, and 40ft New Jersey waves are all examples of big waves. Other examples are 20ft, 10ft and 5ft waves.

Where do the biggest waves in the world happen?

Biggest waves in the world can be found in Hawaii at Jaws and Mavericks which are both renowned for their big waves. They also happen in California and Portugal but they aren’t as famous or well-known because of their size. 

What kind of equipment do you need to go big wave surfing?

You need to wear a wet suit, leash, wax, and board to go big wave surfing. You may also need an arm rope if you plan on going into the sea.  

How does big wave surfing make money?

Big wave surfing makes money by charging sponsors to pay for it. Also, they give lessons to people wanting to learn how to surf big waves or do well in them. They can also make enough money from their sponsorships and donations that they can do it full-time.           

Are big waves easier to catch?  

No, big waves are not easier to catch because they may come faster and go faster than smaller waves.  Another reason is because they are unpredictable so you have to be on your toes at all times or else you might fall off.

how does a big wave surf board differ from a regular one?

A big wave surf board differs from a regular one in that it’s thicker, more stable and you can stand on the board for longer periods of time.  Also, they are wider which helps you balance better when you’re on the waves.                 

What is the average life expectancy of a big wave surfer?

The average life expectancy of a big wave surfer is 55 years.  This is because big wave surfing can be a dangerous sport and you might get injured.    

Why do big wave surfers wear wetsuits?

Big wave surfers wear wetsuits for two reasons. One reason is because the water in winter can be very cold and they need to warm up quickly after getting out of the water, and second is that they have a buoyancy when in the water which helps them stay afloat while waiting for the next wave.

Do big wave surfers wear life vests?     

No, big wave surfers do not wear life vests because they will get in the way of catching a huge wave.  Another reason is that you can die from a head injury if wearing a life jacket when the wave smashes your head.