Ice climbing crampons are the perfect tool to have up your sleeve when tackling a climb with glacier ice, but what exactly is an ice climbing crampon and how does it differ from other types of crampons? This article will attempt to answer those questions.
An ice climbing crampon is made specifically for walking and climbing on steep and slippery surfaces such as glacier ice and snow. They are made with a front facing point to help with climbing, and they have special straps that allow you to wear them over an ice climbing boot. Some models of crampons also come with removable bars or “pickets” that can be used for additional security in soft snow conditions such as springtime alpine climbs or “snow” shoeing.
There are other types of ice climbing crampons out there; some models have an aluminum design and others use a carbon fiber reinforced plastic (fiberglass) construction. Carbon fiber is one of the lightest materials available, which makes it ideal for climbers that want to keep their overall weight down. However, this type of construction typically results in a more expensive crampon.
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A point in Ice climbing crampons
The pointy part of the crampon is called a ‘point’.
An ice climbing crampon usually consists of three or four points, although you can find some with as many as six; often times those types of crampons are used for winter mountaineering and glacier travel.
Three point models are the more common type of crampon. A good pair of ice climbing crampons might cost anywhere from $75 on up to around $400 or even higher. In most cases, you get what you pay for when it comes to ice climbing crampons.
For example, a model will have “professional” in the name if it is a good and sturdy model, while ice climbing crampons with “mountaineering” in the name will typically be lighter weight and not as durable.
Most ice climbing crampons you find for sale at your local mountaineering store or online will be aluminum construction. There are some models out there that use a stainless steel construction for the bindings, but aluminum is typically used on the point.
In addition to the main three or four points that you use when climbing steep slopes of ice and snow, some models also come with two “rest” points on the backside – crampons with four points and two rear points. These are not sharpened to give you a better purchase on steep terrain; however, they do provide a back-up in case the front points start to “walk” while you’re climbing. Some folks have had luck using them for ascending very steep slopes of ice, although it is definitely not their intended use.
While some companies produce five point crampons, I would not recommend them for glacier ice; the extra point will only get in your way because it doesn’t face forward.
The reason you want three or four points on an ice climbing crampon is to give you better traction when moving up or down steep slopes. Sometimes referred to as “pencil points”, they are sharpened and designed to cut into the ice and give you a solid foothold. Ice climbing crampons are not all that much different then traditional aluminum mountaineering crampons, except that they have points which are sharpened.
Rubber strap binding in Ice climbing crampons
The specialized rubber strap binding system is what sets an ice climbing crampon apart from other types of crampons. These are designed to work in conjunction with the sharp points, which is why you typically see this type of crampon used on lightweight mountain boots.
The specialized strap bindings are usually only found on ice climbing crampons that come in four point models, although there are some exceptions out there. They consist of a front strap that helps hold the front two points in place and also keeps the strap out of the way when climbing. The rear strap is locked into a metal bar that helps keep your heel locked into one of the three or four points that face downward.
Pickets in Ice climbing crampons
Some ice climbing crampons come with bars called “pickets” which can be placed in front of the toe for additional security in soft snow conditions such as springtime alpine climbs or “snow” shoeing.
Pickets are normally not necessary, however they can make things a bit more comfortable in firmer snow conditions. Some folks also use them when climbing steep ice to help with their security.
Pickets are made from aluminum or steel and come in various lengths; some models have several pickets that can be attached together to create the desired length. Aluminum pickets are just that – aluminum; they do not have points on the bottom so they don’t get in the way of your climbing.
Steel pickets, on the other hand, do have points on the bottom and therefore should only be used when you need them for their security benefits. Pointed steel pickets can damage soft snow or even rip through lighter weight fabric when glissading, so use them only when you have a need for them.
In addition to being used on ice climbing crampons, steel pickets can also be attached to a mountaineering boot in the toe or heel sections in order to provide additional traction in steep snow conditions or firmer springtime slush.
Boot size in Ice climbing crampons
Although ice climbing crampons are designed to fit the majority of boot sizes, there are always exceptions to this rule. The reason being is that some companies have opted to design their products with a universal fit rather than custom fitting them for smaller sized boots. I would not recommend using ice climbing crampons that don’t adjust to smaller boots because they will either be too large and floppy, or you’ll have difficulty getting them tight enough around the boot.
What’s nice about most models of ice climbing crampons is that you can adjust the front and rear straps to make a custom fit for smaller boots. The larger the boot size, the thicker the strap needs to be in order to provide a secure enough hold around your boot while climbing.
Distribution of weight in Ice climbing crampons
Although many ice climbing crampons are designed with lightweight aluminum alloy, which greatly reduces the overall weight of them, these specialized crampons should not be confused with the much lighter and less aggressive Spring Crows because they both have points.
Although ice climbing crampons are lightweight in comparison to metal frame mountain designs such as the Spring Crows or other technical mountaineering boots, they still add quite a bit of weight to your boot and therefore it is important that you keep the overall weight balanced on both feet.
This means that instead of attaching your pack to a single side of your harness, use two shoulder straps if one isn’t enough. This will help distribute the weight across both hips rather than just one. Ice climbing crampons are best used when you already have a good mountaineering boot and use them only for the specific type of ice climbing that is required.
Types in Ice climbing crampons
There are three different styles which vary in length as well as function. The two front points can face forward or upward, depending on your preference.
In all three styles, the middle or front strap goes across your instep and then around your heel before being crisscrossed by the rear straps. This makes for a good snug fit which will provide you with enough support to climb ice efficiently. In addition, this style of crampon is great for easy angled glacier travel as well as just enough support for what they are designed to do.
The two front points can face forward or upward, depending on your preference. Crampons of this type are the most common and versatile because you have the added security of having both front points facing in either direction. This is very handy if you prefer one way over the other but it is also great for walking on flat or semi-even surfaces.
The shortest of the three types, these are designed to be used either as front points only or rear points which can face forward or upward depending on your preference. Because they lack the added length, it makes uphill climbs a little more difficult but they provide a great amount of support for descending on steep angles.
In conclusion, any of these types can be used if you know ahead of time that your plans call for this type of ice climbing. However, I would recommend starting out with an adjustable model which is generally more versatile and can be quickly and easily adjusted for all boot sizes and different types of ice climbing.
Now that we have covered the basics, lets go into a little more detail to help you further understand what sets these models apart from each other.
