Imagine a wall of water, towering over skyscrapers, hurtling towards you. This isn’t a scene from a disaster movie; it’s a typical day for professional big wave surfers, a fearless breed who chase the ocean’s most colossal swells. Big wave surfing isn’t just a sport; it’s a high-stakes dance with nature, pushing the boundaries of human courage and skill.
These daring athletes travel the globe, risking life and limb to conquer waves that most would consider insurmountable. It’s a world where the line between triumph and tragedy is razor-thin, and every ride is a testament to unwavering mental and physical fortitude.
What is Big Wave Surfing?
Big wave surfing is an extreme sport dedicated to riding ocean waves generally over 20 feet (6.2 meters) high. Unlike conventional surfing, it often requires specialized equipment and techniques, including jet ski assist (tow-in surfing) to reach the monstrous swells, though many purists still prefer to paddle in.
The ability to “read” the water and predict a big wave swell is fundamental, a skill honed over years of practice. In this realm, the waves are so colossal that only a handful of expert surfers possess the bravery and expertise to even attempt them.
The Thrill and Danger: Chasing Giants at Nazare
The allure of big wave surfing often culminates in places like Nazare, Portugal, a legendary spot known for producing some of the largest surfable waves on Earth. It’s here that records are shattered and legends are made.
Garrett McNamara: A Pioneer of Nazare
American big wave surfer Garrett McNamara, an undisputed icon of the sport, has repeatedly pushed the limits at Nazare. In 2014, he was officially recognized for riding a colossal 100ft (30.5m) wave at Praia do Norte, Nazare, an astonishing feat that broke his own previous world record of 78ft (23m) set at the same location in 2011.
Cinematographer Matt Pycroft, who has followed McNamara for years, captured some of these historic moments. He recalls the intense conditions: “Just days before Garrett broke his own world record… the next day I looked at the forecast and saw another big set coming. It was about eight o’clock in the morning when they got out there, it was pretty dark and cold. They paddled for two hours before they found one that was rideable.”
Such dedication and patience are crucial, as Pycroft explains: “There were a lot of waves that day but the one Garrett went on is what people are calling ‘the biggest wave ever ridden’ – I think it was around 90ft. I’ve been following Garrett for the last seven years so I know what he’s capable of but even with that knowledge you just can’t believe your eyes sometimes.”
Winter Storm Hercules: A Catalyst for Giants
Nature often plays a direct hand in creating these monster waves. Winter Storm Hercules, for example, delivered a particularly powerful batch of storms to Europe in early 2014, battering coastlines with high winds and intense showers. These perilous conditions, ironically, created perfect surfing conditions along the western coasts of Portugal and Spain, sparking a big wave surfing “gold rush.”
Professional surfers from across the world flocked to storm-battered Portugal, drawn by the promise of historic swells. Portuguese surfer Hugo Vau was among those who took on immense waves, noting, “The sea conditions have been really rough recently, really bigger than normal.” These rare windows of extreme weather transform select coastlines into the ultimate proving grounds for big wave enthusiasts.
Essential Skills and Preparation for Big Wave Surfing
Aspiring big wave surfers must understand that this isn’t a casual pursuit. It demands meticulous preparation, unparalleled skill, and a deep respect for the ocean’s raw power.
Mental and Physical Fortitude
Of all surfing disciplines, big wave surfing requires the most profound mental strength and preparation. You must be able to maintain composure in life-threatening situations and trust your instincts implicitly. This intense mental game is paired with incredible physical fitness.
Expect to paddle into waves that are twice your height or more, demanding exceptional upper body strength and stamina. Underwater breath-hold training is also critical, as you could be held down for extended periods by powerful currents.
Choosing Your Equipment Carefully
Your gear is your lifeline in big waves. Standard surfboards simply won’t cut it. Big wave boards are typically longer, thicker, and more stable, designed to handle immense speed and force. They are often equipped with multiple leash plugs, as the force of a wipeout can easily snap a single leash.
Wetsuits are essential not just for warmth in cold waters, but also for buoyancy, helping surfers stay afloat. While traditionalists might forgo them, many big wave surfers now wear inflatable vests (often called impact vests or flotation vests) that can be deployed to aid in resurfacing after a brutal wipeout. Helmets are also common to protect against board impacts or reef collisions.
Mastering the Ride: From Line-up to Finish
- Position Yourself Wisely: The line-up is critical. Choose a spot away from sharp reefs, rocks, and other surfers to minimize collision risks. Understand the wave break – where the long, deep ocean swells hit a steep seabed bank and topple over.
- Wait for the Right Wave: Patience is paramount. Not every large swell is rideable. Look for waves with an open face that offer a clear path, rather than those that are closing out (where the entire wave breaks at once).
- Paddle with Purpose: Once you’ve identified your wave, paddle with all your might. You need significant speed to match the wave’s velocity. Position yourself near your board’s centerline to reduce drag and ensure optimal take-off.
- Pull Up and Balance: As the wave lifts you, quickly pop up to your feet. This moment requires immense balance and focus. Crouch down to lower your center of gravity, letting the wave carry you forward.
- Ride it Out: Maintain your balance, looking for an open face and angling your board to stay ahead of the breaking curl. Don’t panic; adapt to the wave’s changes, riding it until it loses power or breaks completely.
The World’s Most Epic Big Wave Spots
Certain geographical features conspire with powerful ocean swells to create the planet’s most formidable waves. These are the arenas where big wave surfing truly comes alive.
Nazare, Portugal: Home of Giants
Nazare’s colossal waves are no accident. They are fueled by the Nazare Canyon, the largest underwater canyon in Europe. This massive geological feature funnels ocean swells, amplifying their size and power as they approach the shallower coastal waters, creating the legendary giants that break on Praia do Norte.
Other Legendary Breaks
- Jaws (Pe’ahi), Hawaii: Located on Maui, Jaws is renowned for its incredible power and massive barrels, especially during winter months.
- Mavericks, California: A notoriously cold and dangerous wave south of San Francisco, known for its huge, bone-crushing breaks over a shallow reef.
- Cortes Bank, California: An offshore seamount over 100 miles from San Diego, capable of producing some of the biggest waves imaginable due to its unique bathymetry.
- Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania: Famous for its terrifying “steps” or ledges within the wave face, making for an unpredictable and highly dangerous ride.
- Alaska’s Coast: Less surfed but known for its potential to generate huge waves due to deep ocean conditions and severe weather.
Understanding Big Wave Terminology
Big wave surfers have their own lexicon to describe the massive walls of water they conquer:
- A “bomb” is a truly gigantic and dangerous wave, often exceeding 30 feet, named for its destructive impact.
- “Jumbo” refers to a wave of immense size and power.
- A “green room” describes the inside of a large, perfectly formed barrel, often appearing darker due to the water’s depth.
- The “greyhound bus” metaphorically describes a powerful, chaotic wave crashing with incredible force.
- A “bombora” is a large wave that breaks over a shallow, offshore reef or rock formation.
- A “blue whale” is another term for an exceptionally large wave, emphasizing its colossal and potentially dangerous nature.
The Risks and Rewards: Why Surfers Chase Giants
The decision to pursue big wave surfing is a calculated gamble, weighing profound risks against incomparable rewards.
The Allure: Adrenaline, Mastery, and Physical Benefits
Successfully riding a big wave delivers an unparalleled rush of adrenaline and immense satisfaction. It’s a profound experience of conquering a natural force, a testament to personal limits being pushed and surpassed. Beyond the mental high, surfing offers excellent physical benefits.
It builds core strength, improves balance and coordination, and provides a rigorous cardiovascular workout. The sheer exhilaration and the feeling of harmony with the ocean are motivations that keep these athletes coming back for more.
The Perils: Drowning, Injury, and Technical Challenges
Big wave surfing is inherently dangerous. The primary risks include being held underwater by the immense force of a wave, leading to drowning. Wipeouts can cause severe blunt force trauma from hitting the water, the board, or the seabed, leading to broken bones, concussions, or even paralysis.
Surfers also face strong rip currents, the difficulty of navigating dense whitewater, and the unpredictability of shifting wave faces. The logistical and financial commitment – gear, travel, accommodation – also presents a barrier for many, highlighting that this is a sport for the truly dedicated and well-resourced.
Frequently Asked Questions About Big Wave Surfing
When was big wave surfing first documented?
Big wave surfing, in its rudimentary form, has ancient roots in Polynesian culture. However, the first documented instance in a more modern context is often traced back to 1885 in Hawaii, where surfing began to gain popularity and larger waves were occasionally ridden.
Has anyone tried to surf a tsunami?
No, deliberately surfing a tsunami is not possible and incredibly dangerous. Tsunamis are not like ocean swells; they are massive walls of water generated by underwater seismic events, which move at incredible speeds and cause widespread destruction upon reaching land. They don’t form a surfable ‘face’ but rather a rapidly approaching surge.
What’s the difference between big wave surfing and regular surfing?
The main difference lies in scale, equipment, and technique. Big wave surfing involves waves typically over 20 feet, often requiring jet ski assists and specialized, heavier boards. Regular surfing focuses on smaller to medium-sized waves, primarily paddle-in, using shorter, more maneuverable boards.
Are big waves easier to catch?
No, big waves are generally much harder to catch. They move faster, are less predictable, and require superior paddling strength and precise timing to position oneself correctly. A miscalculation can lead to a severe wipeout.
How does a big wave surfboard differ from a regular one?
Big wave surfboards are typically longer, thicker, and wider than regular boards. This increased volume provides stability at high speeds and helps with paddle power. They are designed for control and speed down the face of a giant wave, rather than quick turns or tricks.
What is the average life expectancy of a big wave surfer?
It’s difficult to provide an exact “average life expectancy” specifically for big wave surfers, as this statistic is not commonly tracked in a way that isolates this specific group. However, like any extreme sport, it carries significant risks that can lead to injuries or fatalities. While many prominent big wave surfers live long lives, the inherent dangers mean it’s a sport with a higher risk profile than many others.
How long can a big wave hold you under?
A big wave can hold a surfer underwater for several seconds, or even up to a minute in a particularly powerful “two-wave hold down.” The duration depends on the wave’s size and power, the water depth, and the surfer’s position. Advanced big wave surfers train extensively to extend their breath-hold capabilities to survive these intense situations.
What to do if a huge wave is coming and you can’t ride it?
If you’re caught in the path of a huge wave and can’t ride it, the best strategy is often to dive deep. Hold your breath, try to relax, and let the wave pass over you. Avoid fighting against its immense power. If possible, swim sideways towards the shoulder of the wave or away from the impact zone, and be prepared for subsequent waves in the set.
